How-to: Make a replacement Samtid lamp shade

Materials: board, cutting tool, patience

Description: The Samtid floor lamp is a beautiful design, and will last for many years. Sadly, the skimpy plastic shade that comes with it disintegrates after two short years, and Ikea does not sell replacements. It doesn't matter if sunlight hits the shade, it doesn't matter if you used a low-heat compact fluorescent. They just fall apart. DO NOT throw that base away. Here is a template to make your own replacement shade.

Instructions:
Print out the pdf on regular old letter sized paper. Your printer may cut off the edges of the images; don't worry, just print out at 100% size. Tape the pages together according to the indications. Tape onto your Bristol board, card stock, or sheet plastic. Cut out on lines, "weave" tabs together, and attach to your base. The template includes the original shade, and also a slightly taller and (I think) much more graceful shape.

Years of extended life for a great but flawed Ikea product!

Download the pdf here.

~ Matthew Bird, Providence, RI

More hacks on IKEAHackers.net

How to: Mount a SAFE floating 2 x 4 EXPEDIT shelf

Materials: 2 EXPEDIT 2 x 2 shelf units,

Description: This is slightly a hack, but more of a work around for those who want to mount an EXPEDIT 2 x 4 shelf on the wall.

The instructions clearly state that you cannot mount a full 2 x 4 bookshelf on the wall (fig. 2). Also, I have baseboards, a power outlet and a phone jack (yes, we still use a LAN line). I wanted the book shelves flush to the wall and not cover up the outlets.

So, to bypass that and still have a safe structure towering over your kids, I came up with this solution. I mounted the two shelving units using the included wall brackets. One of the brackets was screwed in with a wood screw, the other bracket was secured using a 90 lb. dry wall screw. For added insurance, I put a two small brackets on the top and bottom of the lower unit. These L-brackets were secured with two wood screws each along the studs. I put one underneath the unit and one just under the top board of the unit. This lower unit poses a risk of climbing, plus I wanted to put some books in it.

I found that the easiest way to mount was to place an L-bracket on the wall first, then gently set the unit up against the wall on the bracket. This made it easier to hold the unit flush against the wall for centering and leveling. I then penciled in the spot for the screws and removed unit. The included wall brackets are uniquely designed so that you can make small adjustments after the two screws are already in place (fig. 3)

You will notice a small space between the two units. This makes for a great place to store mail or papers. Without a small gap, the unit is simply a heavier version of the 2 x 4 shelving unit. At least, that is my logic.

I originally wanted to create a gap large enough for additional IKEA baskets. Thus, the empty space would become a shelf. My wife did not like the added height of that idea, so we went with the smaller gap. I don't really like the amount of space under the lower unit, but it was the only way to clear the outlets.

~ Ed Flowers, Atlanta, GA

How to: Create a personalised picture with Lack and decal

Materials: Lack

Description: I have an old LACK side table from IKEA that I no longer use.
My sister-in-law wanted me to make her something personal and from the heart. That is when I realized that I could do something fun with the old table.

1. I made a personal picture using Illustrator. I then send it to Parts of Sweden and let them print a furniture decal for me. They already have lovely decals so you don't have to know how to use Illustrator. You can choose between all the Disney motifs and many more.

2. Wait for the furniture decal to be delivered to your home.
3. Unscrew the legs.
4. Clean the table with a rag.

5. Remove the safety paper on the back of the sticker and place decal on the table.
6. To see how to place the decal you can see a videoclip on Youtube here. The video has some Swedish text but hey, you�ll learn some Swedish at the same time.

7. Attach whatever you can find at home that will make it easier for you to hang the picture on the wall. I bought this little metal thing and I am sorry to say that I do not know what it is called. However you attach it on the back of the picture.

8. Now hang it on the wall. Tadaaaa!!!!!

View more decals at Parts of Sweden.

Ikea Besta goes Pirate (and loses a leg)

Materials: Ikea Besta

Description: Those that have multiple Besta cabinets next to each other may not like two legs 'next to each other'.

This little hack (although it's a bit of work and you need the proper tools) is a way to get rid of that superfluous leg.


The steps:

0. Get your Ikea Besta cabinets. Attach them properly to each other (preferably 4 screws).

1. Get am aluminum plate approx 2 mm thick.

2. Drill proper holes (4x 4mm for mounting, 1x 8mm for the leg itself).

3. Route out a section of the Ikea Besta cabinets. Don't go too deep, there's nothing below the top cardboard layer!

4. For strength, I've glued a piece of paper using 2 component glue on the bottom of the routed section, and saturated the cardboard with the glue. This isn't required though.

5. Ikea Besta cabinets are made of cardboard. You can't use those to mount the alu plate, so I added little wooden blocks on the inside (things will be hidden from view by a door anyway).

Okay, that pesky extra leg is gone now. Your Ikea Besta just went pirate...

~ BluezNL, Netherlands

How to: Disassemble a Hemma Cord Set

Materials: Hemma Cord Set

Description: After not being able to find the information online, I created & posted an Instructable on how to disassemble the common IKEA Hemma Cord Set. I thought it might be of interest to the readers of IKEA Hackers as well -- since being able to separate the Hemma opens up possibilities for all kinds of projects.

The second photo is an example of what one can do with a disassembled Hemma Cord Set (it's not the focus of the hack itself).

See the instructable.

~ Michael Hanttula, Los Angeles

How to: Secure the Vika Glasholm glass board

Materials: Vika Glasholm board

Description: My brother in law was looking for a white board for his home office. He wanted an easy to clean one so he decided he preferred glass and got the vika glasholm board. Once at home he realized it was really heavy and couldn't find a good way to hang it. At the end he screw this six round door stoppers to the wall and assembled it.

Sorry, but he was already working on something when I took the photo so I blurred his writings.

~ Ana, Bilbao

How to: Cover a cut up shelf

Materials: as-is table top + leftover blind slats

Description: This is more of a tip for hackers than an actual hack. I have been reading lots of the hacks on this website and have used some ideas in small projects.

Today I bought a small tabletop in the Ikea As-Is dept. I wanted to cut it down and use a pieces as a shelf in an open-front built-in cabinet I have. I used my table saw to cut it to size, leaving me with two strips of honeycombed 'IKEA-wood' I could use as shelves.


What to do about the open area on the back edges of the two shelves I have just created? I can see the cardboard honeycombing inside. I plan to leave this shelf in place for years to come, and don't want any hungry cardboard-munching vermin to take up residence, so I'd like to close it up. And I'd like to be able to use both pieces I've just created, rather than cannibalize the one to get an edging for the other.

I had previously bought a set of Ikea wood blinds. If you are familiar with them, they are made to fit floor-to-ceiling windows. If you need them for a standard window, you simply remove as many slats as needed to create a custom length.

My leftover slats were a perfect color match and near-perfect width to cover the open back of my new shelves! If you don't have leftover slats yourself, likely you can find someone who does via local email lists. Or perhaps Ikea sells extra slats as replacement parts?

I simply used wood glue to attach the necessary lengths of slats, which are made of thin, smooth wood much like the veneer edging on the uncut edges of my tabletop/shelves. Mine overhang an infinitesimal bit on the bottom edge (the width of the slat being minutely more than the thickness of the shelf), which could easily be fixed with sandpaper or a file.

The photo above shows what the formerly open area of the shelf looks like with the slat glued in place. You can hardly tell it was cut open at all. The first photo shows the same shelf from the side; you can see the slight overhang to the right of the shelf and scraps of cut slats lying on the floor beside it.

~ Lori J., California

How to: ReuseTindra candle glass containers

Materials: Tindra Candles

Description: I repurpose/reuse Tindra Candles into useful glasses. After burning, I put them in the freezer which makes it easier to remove the remaining wax residue. After a spin in the dishwasher I reuse them as ice cream dishes, wine tumblers, for fruit & yogurt and often for coffee since their thick heavy glass retains heat well.

Since they are so affordable I'm able to stock up and have plenty on hand for parties and entertaining.

See more of the Tindra candles repurposed.

~ Heather Bullard, California

How-to: Ledberg Lighting wiring hack

Materials: soldering iron, solder, flux, heat shring tubing

Description: The Ikea Ledberg lighting is great but not flexible. All you can do is connect it as one long strip from the package. If you want to connect the strips some distance apart, you have to get creative.

If you are careful you can remove the plastic connector and re solder it to a length of wire to allow the light to be moved and still work as a plug in to the strip. I took my soldering iron and melted the little circular tab about one inch in from the connector block to remove the strip from the plastic case and very carefully un soldered the connector.

I re soldered wire to the light strip and replaced it in the plastic case. If you re heat the original tab, it will hold the strip in place. I then re soldered the connector onto the wire and covered the connections and connector with heat shrink tubing. Be careful to match the polarity of the wire when re doing the connections. You can add as much wire as you need and place the light strips wherever you want.

~ John B, Fort Lauderdale, FL.

How to: Use BESTA casters on EFFEKTIV base

Materials: 4 BESTA casters (2 per package), EFFEKTIV base

Description: With Ikea officially halting production of casters for the Effektiv file cabinet line last year, I've been on the prowl for a quality looking solution -- and this one will be easy-peasy!

1. Purchase 2 sets of 2 BESTA metal casters from Ikea. Item code: 401.341.87 This will run you 20 dollars. Use a small punch or other bolt to act as a driver and, with a hammer, tap out the preinstalled bolt through the bottom of each caster. This might leave a tiny nick in the wheel. The caster is now ready to accept a new bolt.

2. Run by Home Depot's nuts and bolts section and pick up 4 of the following - bin 3379, 3275, 3109. This will consist of a long bolt, washer and a self-locking nut. Cost is about 6 dollars.

3. Empty Effektiv cabinet and gently place on side. Remove base by unlocking the 4 tightening inset bolts inside the bottom box. If you've yet to assemble your tower, all the the better.

4. Thread a bolt through the slightly loose washer and then through one of the 4 holes in the base. The bolt should be facing down, towards the floor side of the base. Now slide the prepared caster onto the bottom and through the bolt. A tiny space is available between the wheel caster top where you can insert and lightly tighten by hand the self-locking nut. Using a set of wrenches or needle-nose pliers, you'll be able to lock and hold the bolt as you tighten the nut. Once tightened, repeat 3 more times.

Please note: The original feet accept a supplied bolt with a Y neck, which means the hole on the top side of the base is kind of wide. That's what the washer is for. But keep in mind to do your best to have the caster off center and inset. This will ensure that when the file cabinet is installed on top of the base, that the boards clear the washer. You'll see what I mean in the photos.

~ Paul Grant, Toronto, Ontario

How-to: New life for Ikea's Urban Chairs

Materials: Sunbleached Ikea Urban Chair, Penetrol

Description: Need to bring your Ikea Urban chairs back to life? Try a Scotchbrite and Penetrol (then protect with 303 Aerospace Protectant).

On a lark, I remembered what magic Penetrol did for Eames fiberglass chairs, so I gave it a try on these Urbans. First, clean well and "exfoliate" the seriously ashy bits with a Scotchbrite. Protecting the area well (dropcloth, etc.), saturate a rag with the Penetrol and wipe liberally on the chair. Rewipe if necessary and let dry for a few minutes. Wipe (or even out any excess). Let it dry a day and protect with 303.

You're ready for another season or two...

See more of the new lease of life for urban chairs.

~ Hunter, SFBay

How to: Portis Cullis

Materials: Portis Shoe Rack, Hacksaw, Metal repair resin

Description: I though shortening the Portis shoe rack was going to be a simple hacksaw job but it turned out a little more complex.

Saw the bars to length and don't throw the offcuts just yet.

Find the four offcuts that have a nut in the end. Use a piece of scrap metal to drive the nut a little further into the bar. You can now cut off the rolled over end of the bar without damaging the nuts. Drive the nut back in the other direction and it will pop out the end of the bar. Repeat for the other 3.

Locate the 4 bars that have a nut in one end. Hammer a nut into the end of each of these. Use metal repair resin to secure. Clean out any resin that gets into the screw threads before it dries.

Assemble as per the instructions and you have successfully shortened the Portis Shoe Rack.

See more of how to shorten the Portis.

~ Andy from Workshopshed, London

Kulla Lamp Refurb Instructions!

Materials: Kulla Lamp (floor or desk model)

Description: I was disappointed by the 6 month lifespan of my Kulla floor lamp, the glossy enameled bauhaus-y piece I finally let myself spend $100 on. One day, it just didn't turn on.

When I checked online to see if there were any quick fixes, I found plenty of company. Many people reported their Kulla had a mind of its own, cycling through the light settings in the middle of the night.

But people still LOVED their Kullas! Many kept them as non-functional ornaments, unable to simply discard them.

My 90-day warranty was up, I couldn't find my receipt and IKEA was a 2-hour drive, so I figured I was on my own. I loved my Kulla too. There had to be a way!

This post shed some, uh, light on what I was up against:


Commenter Marc had gave me the confidence to take the lamp apart and the rest I improvised. Following are instructions on how to get the Kulla up and running when it becomes possessed or just dies totally.

The problem is that the dimmer control board has burned out, so we are going to replace it. The replacement module is $10 at Lowe's (online or brick & mortar)

***UNPLUG THE LAMP FROM THE WALL FIRST!***

1. Remove the shade, bulb and wire shade support and unscrew plastic ring under the bulb.

2. While holding the main lamp post with one hand, turn the entire top assembly with the other, using the plastic diffuser disc and the touch post for leverage. (You may prefer to have a helper hold the pole while you turn.) Unscrew the top assembly, feeding some cord slack through the grommet by the lamp's base if things seem to get difficult.

3. With the top assembly off, it's time to separate the halves of the Kulla's skull! It's pretty easy but requires a firm hand. Grasp the threaded rod that secures the top assembly to the lamp post (I used big pliers called Channel Locks) and while holding the outer cup-shaped shell of the top assembly, push straight in on those threads until it gives and separates, breaking open the electrical chamber. I think what you are doing here is breaking a bead of adhesive that keeps the skull together. Finally, with firmness, free the cup-shaped half from the threaded rod entirely. This might require some jiggling at the very end.

4. Next, free the dimmer control board from the inner skull by peeling the black plastic case away (it's held with double-sided foam tape. Open but don't discard the black plastic housing. We wil be reusing half of this plastic capsule for the new board. You will probably smell a burned electronics smell at this point; that's the old dimmer control board which is fried.

5. Prepare the new board by breaking it out of its casing with a small putty knife or similar tool. Unfortunately its gray housing is slightly too bulky to fit into Kulla's skull.

6. Now comes the brain transplant! For this step, match the black and white wire positions and substitute the gray wire of the new board for the blue wire of the old board:

Remove the old, defective dimmer control board by clipping off the tiny zip ties, cutting off the black heat shrink tubing and un-crimping the connectors one at a time. I used a technique of wiring in the new board as I unwired the old: un-crimp one connector and attach the appropriate wire from the new board, the twist on the tiny, supplied wire nut. Then repeat the process for the other two crimped connections. This way you don't get confused by the loose wires that would otherwise result. I used a crimping tool to un-crimp, but pliers will do.

7. When the new board is in and the wire nuts twisted tightly, use tiny zip ties to hold the wires together right near the wire nuts (just like the old ones that you cut off earlier). Clip off the tails of the zip ties. Wind electrical tape around the zip ties and wire nuts.

8. Place the new dimmer control board (component-side first) into half of the black housing from the old board, leaving the heat sink as the exposed side.

9. The eyelet on the yellow wire of the new board is too big, so we need to replace it with a smaller one from radio shack or a hardware store. I just cut off the original one, stripped a bit of wire and crimped a smaller one on to fit over the fitting of the touch post.

10.TEST IT OUT! The moment of truth... put in a bulb, plug in the lamp and touch the exposed eyelet at the end of the yellow wire of the new dimmer board. The lamp should cycle through the various dimmer settings. Don't worry, no current runs through that piece. Actually at this point there should be nothing exposed that could cause a shock. Assuming it works, let's put Kulla back together!

***UNPLUG THE LAMP AND REMOVE THE BULB!***

11. Using the double-sided tape supplied with the new board, stick the new board by its recycled housing back down into the Kulla skull interior floor from whence the old board came.

12. Pack everything in nice and tight and press the two halves of the skull together. Holding the halves together, place the top assembly back onto the lamp post and screw it back on. When it is nice and tight, the skull will be closed up tightly again.

13. Reassemble and enjoy!

~ Nick Johnson, Portland, Maine

Hack the hex

This is brilliant. Nate found a way to 'powerize' the hex key. No more numb fingers and blisters.

He says, "When revamping my workspace a few weeks ago - and not in the mood to unscrew my Jerker desk by hand - I thought I might try sacrificing one of the countless hand wrenches I've picked up from Ikea. In a perfect world I would have had a drill bit exactly sized for the hex screws used in the desk's fixtures but, alas, such things escape my grasp.

So I took the freebie hex wrench, cut it at the straightest edge I could manage with the bolt cutters and slid the new 'bit' into the chuck of the power drill. It held in there just fine and I had my desk in pieces in minutes. I imagine that this technique isn't limited to just this driver but to any and all Ikea wrenches and hand drivers, from the S shapes to the L's."

how to recover your ironing board

not really hacks but two fantastic how-tos on recovering ironing boards. if you have an ironing board, you're bound to find this useful. i won't go into the details of how it is done - just hop over to their blogs for their clear-as-day instructions.

julie restored her old stryka ironing board using the ikea ps gersby fabric. go here for her tutorial.

feed dog recovered a d�nka ironing board with pernilla fabric. go here for feed dog's tutorial.